What is Tokonole?

Knowledge of leather

Vitano Handmade

6/2/20253 min read

Tokonole is a leather finishing and burnishing cream originating from Japan, produced by Seiwa. It is a water-based, odorless, non-toxic product made from natural and synthetic ingredients such as beeswax, natural gum, and synthetic resin. Tokonole is primarily used in leathercraft for:

  1. Finishing leather surfaces: Applied to the flesh side (rough side) of leather to smooth out fibers and create a clean, professional appearance.

  2. Edge burnishing: Helps compress and polish leather edges, especially on vegetable-tanned leather, resulting in a smooth, glossy finish. When semi-dry, it is rubbed vigorously to enhance shine.

  3. Versatility: Suitable for both vegetable-tanned and chrome-tanned leather, though it performs best on vegetable-tanned leather. Its water-based nature makes it compatible with dyes or other finishes.

How to use:

  • Apply a thin layer of Tokonole to the leather edge or flesh side using a finger, sponge, or burnishing tool.

  • When semi-dry, rub vigorously with a cotton cloth or burnishing tool to achieve a glossy finish.

  • Repeat the process as needed for desired results.

Tokonole is highly regarded in the leathercraft community for its ease of use, suitability for beginners and professionals, and ability to produce a durable, glossy finish. However, it is not waterproof, so it is often paired with beeswax or a sealant for added protection.

Chemical Composition of Tokonole

The exact chemical formula of Tokonole is not publicly disclosed, as it is a proprietary commercial product. According to Seiwa, Tokonole is a water-based mixture containing:

  • Beeswax: A natural wax with a general chemical formula of C15H31COOC30H61 (myricyl palmitate, a primary component of beeswax).

  • Natural gum: Likely includes natural polymers such as collagen-based gums, though specific compounds are not detailed.

  • Synthetic resin: Typically water-soluble polymers like acrylic or polyurethane emulsions, but exact formulations are proprietary.

  • Water: The primary solvent, making up the bulk of the product.

Due to its proprietary nature, precise ratios and additional components are not disclosed. A detailed chemical analysis would require laboratory testing, which is uncommon for craft products like Tokonole.

Alternative Products

Tokonole is primarily used for finishing and burnishing leather edges, especially on vegetable-tanned leather. Below are comparable alternative products widely used in leathercraft:

  1. Gum Tragacanth:

    • Composition: A natural polysaccharide extracted from Astragalus plant sap, water-soluble.

    • Use: Smooths and burnishes leather edges, creating a natural shine. Typically diluted with water before use.

    • Advantages: All-natural, easy to use, ideal for vegetable-tanned leather.

    • Disadvantages: May produce less shine than Tokonole, requiring more burnishing effort.

    • Availability: Available from suppliers like Tandy Leather or specialty leathercraft stores.

  2. Saddle Soap:

    • Composition: A blend of soap (sodium salts of fatty acids, e.g., C17H35COONa), glycerin, and sometimes beeswax.

    • Use: Smooths leather surfaces and edges, also used for cleaning and conditioning.

    • Advantages: Versatile, suitable for cleaning and burnishing.

    • Disadvantages: Less specialized for edge burnishing than Tokonole, with less glossy results.

    • Availability: Available from Fiebing’s, Tandy Leather, or other leathercare brands.

  3. Fiebing’s Edge Kote:

    • Composition: Water-based acrylic resin, dyes, and thickeners (exact formula proprietary).

    • Use: Coats and burnishes leather edges, available in multiple colors.

    • Advantages: Durable coating, easy to apply, suitable for both vegetable-tanned and chrome-tanned leather.

    • Disadvantages: Less natural than Tokonole, may feel more "plastic-like."

    • Availability: Fiebing’s, widely available at leathercraft suppliers.

  4. CMC (Carboxymethyl Cellulose):

    • Composition: C8H15NaO8, a natural or semi-synthetic polymer, typically diluted in water.

    • Use: Smooths leather surfaces and edges, providing a light gloss when burnished.

    • Advantages: Affordable, eco-friendly, widely available.

    • Disadvantages: Less effective for high-gloss burnishing compared to Tokonole, requires skill.

    • Availability: Found at chemical suppliers or leathercraft retailers.

  5. Eco-Flo Edge Dressing (by Tandy Leather):

    • Composition: Water-based synthetic resin blend, similar to Tokonole, with added colorants.

    • Use: Burnishes and protects leather edges, suitable for various leather types.

    • Advantages: User-friendly, eco-friendly, available in multiple colors.

    • Disadvantages: Coating durability may be lower than Tokonole.

    • Availability: Tandy Leather or other leathercraft distributors.

Comparison and Notes
  • Natural composition: Tokonole and Gum Tragacanth are more natural compared to Fiebing’s Edge Kote or Eco-Flo, appealing to those prioritizing eco-friendly products.

  • Burnishing performance: Tokonole excels in gloss and ease of use, while Gum Tragacanth requires more burnishing effort.

  • Application: Most products work best on vegetable-tanned leather, but Fiebing’s Edge Kote and Eco-Flo are more versatile for chrome-tanned leather.

  • Cost and availability: Tokonole may be pricier than alternatives like CMC or Gum Tragacanth but is widely available through international retailers (e.g., Amazon, Etsy, or Seiwa distributors).